22.06.2006 - aquitaine-biarritz-bistrot
Biarritz, le Sur Mesure, chronique express et dîner du 17 juin 2006

Très belle découverte à Biarritz que ce "bistrot gastro" proche du centre. Un couple d'une gentillesse exceptionnelle l'a ouvert il y a moins d'un an, et je vous encourage à le tester séance tenante.

De passage à Biarritz, nous nous sommes plongés dans la lecture du Ramuntxo gourmand pour trouver une table où dîner. Le commentaire consacré au Sur Mesure nous a conquis et nous avons derechef réservé.

Situé dans le quartier Saint Charles, non loin du centre ville, ce restaurant s'apparente plus pour moi à un bistrot gastro. Le décor est typiquement bistrot avec un grand comptoir et tabourets hauts pour manger sur le pouce, des tables recouvertes d'une matière entre papier tissé et bull gomme, des chaises en métal somme toute assez confortables.

La première particularité du Sur Mesure est de justifier son nom, tous les plats étant proposés en small, medium ou XL. La carte, renouvelée très souvent comprend 4 entrées (S = 7 €, M = 9 € et XL = 11 €), 2 poissons et 2 viandes (S = 10 €, M = 12 € et XL = 14 €), un assortiment de fromages AOC et leur salade (S = 5 €, M = 7 € et XL = 9 €), et enfin 3 desserts (S = 6 €, M = 8 € et XL = 10 €)

La deuxième particularité est la taille de la cuisine, environ le tiers de la votre, où le chef et un apprenti s'affairent en silence. Quand à la patronne, elle assure le service seule, ce qui doit être sportif quand la trentaine de couverts est présente. Mais vu les présentations raffinées, ce doit être sympa en cuisine aussi. Et quand le service est terminé, le couple s'attaque à la plonge. J'ai dans l'idée qu'ils font les 35 heures tous les deux jours.

La troisième particularité est que la vingtaine de vins de la carte sont tous proposés au verre. Une excellente initiative qui devrait se généraliser.

Pour ce dîner, nous avons donc commandé une bouteille de

Jurançon sec Domaine Bru-Baché 2003, très vif, certainement avec pas mal de gros manseng, car quelques heures auparavant nous avions dégusté le Jurançon sec du Domaine Bellegarde majoritairement petit manseng, autrement plus subtil (et plus cher aussi...). Le Bru Baché est agréable, j'ai juste trouvé que je m'en lassais assez rapidement.

Cigale de mer et purée d'artichauts sur un sablé au parmesan, jus de rhubarbe (small).

Je trouve que la cigale de mer est meilleure que les homards canadiens. La purée d'artichaut est digne d'une grande table, tant par sa texture que par sa saveur, laquelle alliée au sablé (genre crumble) au parmesan est exceptionnelle d'équilibre. Le jus de rhubarbe apporte un peu de vivacité qui ne se justifie pas vraiment. La saveur de la cigale n'est pas perturbée par l'accompagnement. L'accord avec le vin est satisfaisant gustativement, mais il ne se passe pas grand chose entre le plat et le vin.

Ségolène a pris le velouté froid de petits pois mentholé et tartine printanière (small) sur la photo de début d'article. Je n'ai goûté que le velouté, exceptionnel. Ségolène fera un petit commentaire pour compléter.

Pavé de bonite presque cuit, beurre d'herbes, bonbons de pomme de terre (small).

J'aime le thon presque cru, et vous pouvez voir sur la photo que ma cuisson préférée a été respectée à la lettre. Les bonbons sont amusants, et le beurre d'herbes est une merveille de fraîcheur qui réveille l'atonalité des pommes de terre et du thon, par ailleurs très goûteux. Le vin s'exprime un peu mieux sur ce plat, sans qu'il soit nécessaire d'en écrire des lignes.

Poitrine de porc confite et croustillante, haricots rouges en vinaigrette, bouillon parfumé à la sauge (XL).

Avec ce plat, on atteint des sommets. Le lard est confit entier à basse température 12 heures, puis laissé à refroidir et découpé dans sa gelée. Puis il est caramélisé au beurre à la minute, ce qui le rend croustillant et fondant à la fois. Les haricots rouges sont servis froids, avec des cubes de gelée de cornichon (exceptionnels). La sauce est chaude, et les cubes fondent doucement à son contact. La saveur est alors assez proche d'une gribiche. L'apport de la sauge, discret, renforce encore l'équilibre de ce plat. La vivacité du vin se marie très bien, et c'est l'accord le plus intéressant.

Cappucino fraise-citronnelle, émulsion vanille (small).

Aïe, j'ai oublié de photographier, il faut dire que c'était si appétissant que je me suis un peu jeté dessus. Et de fait, ce qui dominait encore était l'équilibre des saveurs. Et aucun sucre ajouté. Bravo.

En conclusion, ce chef est un grand de demain. Espérons que les distinctions qu'il ne manquera pas de glaner ne lui feront pas trop changer d'orientation, c'est trop bien comme ça. Sans doute que passer presque 10 ans aux côtés de Joël Robuchon est une bonne école de rigueur.

Et s'il fallait trouver quelque chose à améliorer, je le verrais volontiers sur la carte des vins, qui est déjà très pertinente sur une moitié des références.

Le Sur Mesure

11 Avenue de la Marne

64200 BIARRITZ

Tel : 05 59 24 60 81

Responsables : Nicolas et Cécilia (!) Gaulandeau

Nicolas Gaulandeau, chef de cuisine

Biarritz, le Sur Mesure, chronique express et dîner du 3 août 2006

22 06 2006 - 10:55 par Anne (Papilles)

Cela donne vraiment envie d y aller. Une bonne occasion d'aller à Biarritz

22 06 2006 - 12:32 par Audrey

Merci beaucoup pour cette adresse. Je vais souvent au Payx Basque, je ne louperais pas ce resto la prochaine fois !

22 06 2006 - 13:08 par salwa

L'assiette de la cigale de mer a l'air delicieuse! Enorme travail pour ce couple.Quel courage

23 06 2006 - 00:39 par Véro

Merci pour cette adresse qui a l'air très sympathique... Lorsque j'allais à Biarritz et que j'avais envie d'un petit resto "gastro", j'allais chez "La Goulue"... Je ne manquerai pas d'essayer ce Sur Mesure!

04 07 2006 - 18:20 par naima

merci bien pour cet information

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12 11 2010 - 04:48 par londonugg

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12 11 2010 - 05:16 par machen

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17 11 2010 - 07:34 par UGGs On sale

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