15.03.2006 - histoire
L'oeuf

Un oeuf c'est tout rond, tout lisse, c'est du blanc et du jaune qui coule dans le panier à provisions trop rempli, et des morceaux de coquilles dans les blancs que l'on destine au soufflé. Mais pas seulement, sous la coquille hermétique se cachent pleins de mystères.

Les orphiques croyaient que le monde était né d'un oeuf, la nuit courtisée par le vent aurait pondu un oeuf d'où naquit Eros. De nombreux mythes, dans toutes les civilisations, reprennent cette idée : en Chine, de l'oeuf sont issus le yin et le yang, en Inde, la Terre et le Ciel sortent d'un oeuf. De nombreux héros des légendes naquirent de l'oeuf comme Castor et Pollux sortis de l'oeuf pondu par Léda séduite par un cygne qui n'était autre que Zeus.

L'oeuf est le Tout contenu dans une coquille, c'est la matrice fondamentale que les grecs décrivaient par cette phrase : Hen ta panda, un toutes choses. Les alchimistes pensaient que de l'oeuf philosophique la matière se transmuterait en métaux précieux, l'or venant du jaune bien sûr. Contenant l'embryon du poussin qui percera la coquille, l'oeuf devient le symbole de la renaissance, du réveil de la nature, de Pâques et du Christ ressuscité. Le germe est associé à l'énergie vitale par conséquent l'oeuf est lié à des rites magiques de guérison, de fertilité. Dans la magie populaire, on enterre un oeuf dans la tombe du défunt pour favoriser son voyage dans l'au delà, près des maisons, pour les protéger de la foudre et chasser les esprits.

A l'époque des chasseurs cueilleurs, les oeufs de canes, d'oies, de pintades, de pigeons, de cailles, voire d'autruches (un oeuf pour une omelette de dix personnes !), en fait de tous les volatiles  dont on pouvait piller les nids, étaient ramassés. Gobés, ils nourrissaient quand la viande faisait défaut. Nos lointains ancêtres avaient trouvé le moyen de parer au manque de protéines animales. Et peu leur importait de priver les oiseaux de leur descendance. Plus tard, lorsque l'élevage s'organisa, les bêtes à plumes et plus particulièrement les poules et coqs furent soigneusement gardées et élevées. Les poules étant très fécondes, on pouvait ramasser leurs oeufs, il suffisait d'avoir coq bien vigoureux, de laisser quelques oeufs à couver et la fortune était faite, c'est, du moins, ce que s'imaginait la malheureuse Perrette. La basse cour fit très vite partie du décor de toute bonne ferme, elle fournissait toute l'année viande et oeufs.

L'oeuf cuisiné entra dans l'alimentation quotidienne, les égyptiens aimaient les oeufs d'oie, les étrusques élevaient poules et coqs en grand nombre car ils consommaient beaucoup d'oeufs comme on peut le voir sur des scènes de banquets peintes sur les tombes. A Rome, Apicius inventa les entremets - la crème renversée - à base d'oeufs, il utilisait aussi les oeufs pour épaissir et monter les sauces et dans certaines préparations, mais rarement seuls. Lors de la céna, les oeufs étaient dégustés lors de la gustatio avec des olives et du pain pour calmer la faim en attendant des nourritures plus substantielles, une sorte d'apéritif, et à la fin du repas, avec les desserts. Quelques siècles après, l'école de Salerne s'appuyant sur les écrits des médecins grecs préconisait de manger les oeufs frais mollets, considérés plus nourrissant et plus digestes au contraire des oeufs durs. Les pythagoriciens, végétariens, refusaient de manger des oeufs qui étaient pour eux de la chair potentielle. L'Eglise reprendra cette idée, lors du concile d'Aix La Chapelle, en interdisant les oeufs pendant le Carême. Les oeufs étaient soit couvés pour donner des volailles à rôtir lors des repas de moisson et de battage, soit conservés, dans la graisse ou dans la sciure, afin d'éviter les échanges gazeux, pour être mangés à Pâques.  Pour cette fête, on décore, teint, peint, enchasse de pierreries et d'or, comme ceux de Fabergé en Russie, les oeufs qui sont offerts à ceux à qui l'on veut faire plaisir. Le plus gros était offert au roi entouré d'un ruban rouge, usage que l'on retrouve dans nos oeufs en chocolat. En Grèce, dans l'île de Karpathos, on garde encore la tradition de se saluer le jour de Pâques en choquant des oeufs durs et l'on cuit d'énormes omelettes comme on le faisait chez nous au Moyen Age avec les oeufs pondus le Vendredi saint. Pourquoi mange t-on des oeufs pour la fête de Pâques? Anatole France dans "Les opinions de Jérôme Coignard" oppose deux conceptions :

"M. Nicolas Cerise regarda mon bon maître d'un oeil clignotant et lui dit avec un rire mince :

- Monsieur l'abbé Coignard, ces oeufs, dont les coquilles teintes de betterave jonchent le plancher sous nos pieds, ne sont point, dans leur essence, aussi chrétiens et catholiques qu'il vous plait de le croire. Les oeufs de Pâques sont, au contraire, d'origine païenne et rappellent, au moment de l'équinoxe de printemps, l'éclosion mystérieuse de la vie. C'est un vieux symbole qui s'est conservé dans la religion chrétienne.

- On peut soutenir tout aussi raisonnablement, dit mon bon maître, que c'est un symbole de résurrection du Christ. Pour moi qui n'ai nul goût à charger la religion de subtilités symboliques, je croirais volontiers que la joie de manger des oeufs dont on a été privé durant le carême est la seule cause qui les fait paraître en ce jour sur les tables avec honneur et vêtus de la pourpre royale."

Ce n'est qu'au 18ème siècle qu'apparaissent les oeufs en chocolat qui sont apportés aux enfants par les cloches de Rome et soigneusement cachés, occasion d'une joyeuse quête toujours récompensée.

Mais, foin d'arguties théologiques auxquelles personne ne comprenait rien, les oeufs devinrent très vite des aliments que l'on pouvait manger les jours de pénitence en alternance avec la poisson. Et c'est ainsi que dans les monastères, en premier lieu là où les régimes alimentaires étaient les plus stricts, on inventa mille et une recettes pour accommoder les oeufs au point que Rabelais pouvait écrire dans Pantagruel : " les gastrolâtres sacrifient à leur dieu ventripotent : oeufs fritz, perduez, suffocqués, estuvés, traînés par les cendres, jettés par la cheminée, barbouillés, gouildronnés..." Il y avait comme maintenant maintes recettes : cuits sous la braise pour les manger durs ou mollets, au plat, en omelette agrémentés de légumes et de viande, puis de pomme de terre qui en faisait un plat très consistant, battus avec du verjus comme liant, plus tard on les cuit à la coque, en cocote et brouillés.

En ville, les boulangers utilisaient beaucoup d'oeufs qu'ils incorporaient à la pâte à pain avec d'autres ingrédients pour confectionner croûtes, pâtés et darioles.

On prête à Louis XV qui raffolait d'oeufs à la coque et de meringues d'avoir développer l'aviculture à Versailles, les poulettes étaient installées jusque dans les greniers et fournissaient quotidiennement les coquetiers royaux. Sous le règne de ce roi, les français consommaient 60 oeufs par an et par personne et Menon disait de l'oeuf : "c'est un aliment excellent et nourrissant que le sain et le malade, le pauvre et le riche partageaient ensemble." Nous en consommons en 2003, 250 par an et par tête (la France est le premier producteur d'oeufs).  La taille de l'oeuf a aussi augmenté passant de 50 à 60 gr.

Et nous avons raison car non seulement c'est un aliment facile à cuisiner rapidement et digeste, surtout s'il est cuit sans matières grasses, mais il est aussi riche en protéines (proche de la protéine idéale), en lipides, en vitamines, en sels minéraux et en oligo-éléments (phosphore et fer). Si vous avez du cholestérol, n'en consommez pas plus de deux par jour.

Privilégiez les oeufs de poules élevées en plein air, au mieux des oeufs Bio, Label rouge ou en sol. Lorsque rien n'est précisé sur la boîte, vous achetez des oeufs de poules élevées en cage c'est à dire dans 550 cm2 contre 4m2 de terrain herbeux pour les premières. Soyez attentifs à la date de consommation si vous les achetez en supermarché, et au calibre : les petits font moins de 53 gr, les moyens entre 53 et 62 gr, les gros de 63 à 72 gr et les très gros plus de 73 gr. Il y a une différence de 20 gr qui peut jouer dans la confection d'un gâteau.

La nourriture ne modifie pas la couleur de la coquille qui dépend de l'espéce, en revanche elle modifie celle du jaune, dans le Sud-Ouest, par exemple, où les poules sont nourries au maïs, le jaune est orange et donne de belles couleurs aux gâteaux et aux crèpes. C'est aussi dans le jaune que se concentre l'arôme de l'oeuf, vous pouvez alors deviner ce qu'a mangé la poule. Et c'est pour cela également que lorsque vous conservez vos oeufs au frais, ne les faites pas voisiner avec des melons ou du poisson, n'importe quel aliment qui dégage des odeurs fortes car les coquilles sont poreuses et laissent passer les odeurs; par contre calés contre des truffes ou des fines herbes odorantes, ils prendront un parfum qui sera délicieux dans une omelette.

Assurez-vous quand vous les rangez que les coquilles ne soient ni félées, ni cassées, éliminez ces nids à germes. Et lorsque vous cassez des oeufs pour cuisiner, ne les jetez pas tous ensemble dans une jatte, cassez-les un à un dans une soucoupe pour vérifier sa fraîcheur : un jaune bien bombé et ferme, le blanc assez consistant et gélatineux, liquide il faut le jeter. Vérifiez aussi la chambre à air situé au gros bout de l'oeuf qui doit être la plus petite possible, plus elle est grande, plus il y a d'air qui risque de contaminer votre oeuf.

Nous autres occidentaux aimons les oeufs frais, sans odeur, les chinois eux ne jurent que par les oeufs de cent ans qui nous paraissent bien repoussants. Ces oeufs sont conservés quelques mois, enrobés d'un mélange totalemnt hermétique de paddy, de feuilles de thé, d'argile, de salpêtre et d'aromates. Au bout de ce temps, les coquilles prennent une magnifique teinte noir marbré et l'intérieur ressemble à des oeufs durs couleur jade. Nullement toxiques, ils sont, parait-il, très bons.

Les possibilités culinaires sont innombrables selon les préparations que nous avons énumérées ci-dessus, le jaune seul pour monter une mayonnaise, pour faire des gâteaux, crèpes, gauffres et beignets. Et les blancs montés en neige pour confectionner meringues, mousse et soufflés.

Et pour finir, je vous livre ce qu'écrivaient les auteurs du Gastronome Français, paru en 1828:

Des Oeufs de Pâques

Nous abandonnons aux savants le soin de remonter jusqu'à l'origine des oeufs rouges, et d'expliquer par des monuments antiques le motif de cet usage presque immémorial, qui consisite à donner dans la semaine de Pâques des oeufs teints de cette couleur. Comme l'usage des oeufs est défendu pendant tout le Carême, et qui si l'Eglise nous permet  d'en manger depuis le mercredi des Cendres jusqu'au vendredi de la Passion, ce n'est qu'une tolérance, et pour compatir à notre faiblesse; il se peut que cette couleur donnée aux premiers oeufs qu'il soit licite de manger en sortant du carême, soit un signe d'allégresse ; ce qu'il y a de plus sûr, c'est que les oeufs seraient moins chers, et les poulets bien plus communs, si l'Eglise était moins indulgente.

Les oeufs rouges malgré leur teinture et leur cuisson, ne sont pas plus chers que les blancs, parce que ce sont toujours les plus petits que l'on prépare ainsi, et que, n'étant pas de garde, on est forcé de les vendre en peu de jours. C'est pourquoi aussi il est bon de ne les acheter qu'avec précaution et à des marchands de connaissance; autrement on court risque d'avoir des oeufs gâtés. Il est plus sûr de les acheter frais et de les faire durcir chez soi., d'autant mieux que la couleur n'y fait rien, puisque la coquille ne parait jamais sur la table.

Dans les dernières années du règne de Louis XV, on a vu des oeufs rouges payés jusqu'à 100 écus la pièce. Des artistes habiles s'amusaient à dessiner à la pointe, sur ces oeufs de charmants tableaux, des paysages, des fleurs, et jusqu'à des scènes historiques. On en a du célèbre Boucher, ce peintre des amours et des grâces, auquel on peut reprocher de la manière, sans doute, mais dont le faire était si aimable, si gracieux, et la touche si spirituelle, qu'il passe pour le Dorat de la peinture...

Aujourd'hui l'on ne dessine plus sur les oeufs rouges; ils ont même entièrement passé de mode, et ne se voient guère qu'entre les mains du peuple. Un homme qui présenterait aujourd'hui un panier d'oeufs rouges à une de nos élégantes, la ferait tomber en syncope.

Les oeufs rouges ne s'étalaient autrefois que le samedi saint ; aujourd'hui on les voit courir la rue dès la première semaine du carême. Ce renversement de tout ordre a achevé de leur rendre leur considération et leur crédit. L'apparition d'un oeuf rouge annonçait autrefois le retour du charnage, et faisait naître la joie dans le coeur des fidèles ; aujourd'hui elle ne signifie plus rien. C'est ainsi qu'en bouleversant l'ordre des choses on anéantit jusqu'au souvenir, et l'on finit par effacer la trace des usages les plus anciens et les plus respectables.

Les oeufs rouges s'apprêtent comme tous les autres oeufs durs ; mais leur usage le plus ordinaire est de parer ces jolies salades de laitue nouvelle , dont l'apparition sur nos tables est le signal du printemps.

Et si vous voulez divaguer agréablement sur l'oeuf et la poule et apprendre comment faire de vrais oeufs au plat, cliquez sur :

http://surlezinc.blogs.com/bis/2004/05/eloge de la pou.html.

Et les oeufs brouillés, savez-vous en faire de bons ? C'est simple ? Oui, à condition de bien respecter les règles du jeu et d'être patient.

Dans un poèle, faites chauffer doucement du beurre (10 gr par oeuf), cassez les oeufs entiers, salez et poivrez et remuez les avec une cuillère pour les mélanger dans un plat creux et versez-les dans la poèle sur feu très doux et remuez avec une cuillère en bois, quand ils commencent à saisir (consistance d'une crème), rajoutez une cuillère de crème fraîche et continuez à remuer jusqu'à ce que vos oeufs prennent une consistance mousseuse et très homogène à la fois.

Ségolène Lefevre

Boire et manger, quelle histoire !

15 08 2006 - 21:44 par cabero

bonjour

je souhaiterais savoir quelle est la durete de l'oeuf
c'est en dire en compression combien l'oeuf peut il aux extremites recevoir de pression ??
merci d'av&ance

michel

11 01 2007 - 18:53 par La Nourrice

Les oeufs, c'est surtout très bon !

12 01 2007 - 23:47 par La Nourrice

Merci pour cette charmante histoire de l'oeuf !

Très instructif !

02 02 2007 - 19:38 par Mode

Eh bien voilà qui est intéressant !

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The North Face Jackets came from North Face Canada which do a better job for keeping you both warm and dry. The cotton and wool can attract damp. The cotton next to your skin so that it can absorb your sweat, it also leave you feeling chilled and damp. The top quality synthetic fabric of the North Face Mens Jackets, North Face Down Jackets Men is designed to wick moisture away from your skin and encourage the moisture to travel to the next layer. This is what is known as "breathing". The North Face allows the moisture generated by sweat and exercise to pass through the fabric, and the fabric doesn't trap the moisture and become damp. A natural fabric such as cotton doesn't do this satisfactorily, and will get damp over a period of time. Now that the North Face Womens Jackets, North Face Down Jackets Womens, North Face Sale on our online shop, all are cheap and high quality, you will like it.

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Winter coming, everyone is starting to shop around for a warm winter coat. But the big question is: which one will keep you the warmest without making you look like an abominable snowman? Today´s article highlights for you two coats that meet these important criteria: Canada Goose Men's Yorkville Bomber and Canada Goose Outlet Trillium by Canadian Goose.


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22 03 2011 - 06:11 par sac longchamp

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22 03 2011 - 11:30 par coachoutlethotstore

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22 03 2011 - 11:30 par coachoutlethotstore

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02 04 2011 - 10:59 par PUMA Shoes

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http://www.pumashots.org/page.html?id=6 ||F.A.Q
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http://www.pumashots.org/ ||.
http://www.pumashots.org/index.php?main_page=login ||Log In/register
http://www.pumashots.org/page.html?id=3 ||About Us
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http://www.pumashots.org/page.html?id=5 ||Shipping Info
http://www.pumashots.org/page.html?id=6 ||F.A.Q
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http://www.pumashots.org/index.php?main_page=site_map ||Site Map
http://www.pumashots.org/puma-new-style-shoes-c-42.html ||Puma New Style Shoes
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