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15.05.2007 - histoire
La fraise

Préférez-vous aller aux fraises, ramener votre fraise ou sucrer les fraises ? Ces petits fruits délicieux et si attendus dès les premiers rayons du soleil ont donné lieu à des expressions bien hétéroclites. Il n'empêche que dès les premiers rayons de soleil on voudrait qu'ils soient sur les étals des primeurs.

Nos ancêtres ne dégustaient que la fraise des bois au parfum si délicat qu’ils dénichaient dans la mousse, à la lisière des bois. C’était si bon que des petits gourmands eurent l’idée de repiquer des stolons de fraises des bois dans leur potager. Le plant de fraisier qui appartient à la famille des rosacées, est un rhizome dont les prolongements appelés stolons produisent des rosettes de feuilles qui s’enracinent d’elles-mêmes. Les fraisiers épuisent vite les sols, il faut les changer d’emplacement tous les 3 ans.

Le réceptacle (akène) de la fleur grossit jusqu’à devenir rouge et charnu : la fraise.

Le parfum des fraises est si exquis que son nom: Fragaria vesca qui évolua en fragola (italien), fresa (espagnol) et fraise (français), vient de Fragum, parfum en latin. Par contre les anglais l’appellent strawberry : baie de paille, paille qui isole du sol humide les plants de fraisiers.

Très vite, les potagers s’ornèrent des fraisiers. Louis XIV en raffolait, et les jardins du roi contenaient 4 carrés réservés aux fraises, protégées par des coupe-vent, des châssis et des serres. Il y avait quatre variétés selon Nicolas de Bonnefons, auteur du « Jardinier Français » : la fraise rouge, le blanche, la fraise des bois et la capron. Sous Louis XV, on comptait dix variétés de fraises que l’on pouvait manger toute l’année grâce à l’invention des serres chauffées.

1713, un navigateur breton rapporta du Chili 5 plants d’une espèce indigène : la Fragaria Chiloensis qui s’acclimata très bien à Plougastel. C’est un croisement entre la Blanche du Chili et la fraise de Virginie qui est l’ancêtre des fraisiers français non remontants.

En 1893, un ecclésiastique mit au point une variété remontante : la saint Joseph.

La fraise aime les climats tempérés, plutôt chauds, les sols humides mais bien drainés, et le soleil, la fraise des bois préfère la mi-ombre.

On trouve des fraises aussi à Carpentras, dans le Périgord, dans l’Orléanais. La demande est importante, la période de consommation très courte, le fruit fragile son prix reste donc élevé. Donc, ses zones de production s’étendent : Dordogne, Lot et Garonne, vallée du Rhône, Val de Loire. La France est le deuxième producteur derrière l’Espagne.

Actuellement, on peut trouver 22 espèces de fraisiers remontants dont la Mara des Bois, la Fraise des bois, le Reine des Vallées, la Sans Rivale, 51 non remontants : la Gariguette, dont des variétés anciennes comme la Capron Royale, Sannié, Vicomtesse Héricart de Thuey et Mme Moutot. Et un fraisier grimpant. Et il faut en ajouter 28 qui n’existent que dans les jardins des amateurs de fraises.

C’est un fruit peu calorique, riche en vitamines et sels minéraux, aux propriétés antirhumatismale, astringente, contre l’hypertension et elle active l’intestin.

Donc profitez du printemps pour faire une cure de fraises !

Aujourd’hui, pas de recette, car les fraises ne sont jamais aussi bonnes que nature quand elles sont achetées mures à point, fermes et sucrées.

Voici plutôt quelques lignes d’un hédoniste : Michel Onfray, tirées du livre : « La Raison gourmande ».

«Mon meilleur souvenir gastronomique, c’était une fraise dans le jardin de mon père. La journée avait été chaude, un été. Les fraises étaient gorgées de cette chaleur qui brûle les fruits jusqu’au cœur où ils sont tièdes. Les feuilles ne suffisaient pas à faire une ombre qui les protège assez. J’ai détaché l’une d’entre elles. Mon père m’a invité à la passer sous l’eau, selon son expression, pour la nettoyer et la rafraîchir. Le filet descendu du robinet était glacial, procédant des sources qui dormaient sous les jardins. Lorsque je mis la fraise en bouche, elle était fraîche sur sa surface et chaude en son âme, peau douce presque froide, chair tempérée. Ecrasée sous mon palais, elle se fit liquide qui inonda ma langue, mes joues, puis descendit au fond de ma gorge. J’ai fermé les yeux. Mon père était là, à mes côtés, travaillant la terre, courbé sur les planches du potager. L’espace d’un instant – une éternité -, je fus cette fraise, une pure et simple saveur répandue dans l’univers et contenue dans ma chair d’enfant. De son aile, le bonheur m’avait frôlé avant de partir ailleurs. Depuis, je guette le retour de cet ange hédoniste dont j’ai tant aimé les rémiges et le souffle. Nul doute que je le cherche avec ardeur et qu’il se dérobe, apparaissant quand je ne l’attends pas, surgissant quand le ne l’espère plus. »

Ségolène

Vos commentaires

05 05 2006 - 00:47 par Sylvie

Ce que je préfère avant tout dans les fraises, c'est les manger :o)

12 03 2007 - 21:54 par Banane

Article très intéressant... merci !

15 05 2007 - 21:29 par Lisanka

Merci pour toutes ces infos ;-)

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Moissac, le Pont Napoléon, qu'ai-je mangé ?
23.09.2011 - devinette
Puisque ce jeu consistant à reconnaitre les plats de mes repas gastronomique semble amuser certains, nous voici au Pont Napoléon, à Moissac, chez Michel Dussau, dont on se demande pourquoi il n'est pas étoilé Michelin, pour le déjeuner du 28 décembre 2005.

Morzine - Hébergement
Le Dahu
23.08.2011 - TOURISME - morzine - hebergement
Il existe en France une multitude de chaînes volontaires d'hôtels. L'une d'entre elles mérite qu'on s'y attarde : les Hôtels-Chalets de tradition. ce sont des établissements de moins de 50 chambres, dans les plus beaux villages des Alpes, gérés en famille et où les enfants sont bienvenus et choyés. Poussons la porte des deux situés sur Morzine, et survolons les autres. Pour continuer, le Dahu...

Vienne, la Pyramide, qu'ai-je mangé ?
21.08.2011 - devinette
Puisque ce jeu consistant à reconnaitre les plats de mes repas gastronomique semble amuser certains, nous voici à la Pyramide à Vienne, chez Patrick Henriroux, 2 macarons Michelin, pour le déjeuner du 17 décembre 2005.

Le Wy, Arsac-en-Médoc, Gironde, Aquitaine, déjeuner du vendredi 5 octobre 2007
07.08.2011 - wy-repas
Dans le cadre de ses rencontres « Mollat – Slow Food », Ségolène envisage de consacrer la prochaine aux accords chocolat/porto et caviar/champagne. La maison Laurent Perrier nous invite donc au Wy où devrait avoir lieu cet évènement.

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15.05.2007 - histoire La fraise

15.05.2007 - histoire
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