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Accueil > Gourmandise > Histoire des produits > Citrouilles, potirons et autres courges

06.02.2006 - histoire
Citrouilles, potirons et autres courges

Carrosse de Cendrillon changé en citrouille, citrouille du Cavalier sans tête et celle d'Halloween, monnaie d'Haïti et tous les récipients, instruments de musique et hochets, sculptures décoratives, potages, gratins, desserts, la citrouille et ses soeurs servent vraiment à tout!

Les plantes comestibles dont il va être question maintenant s'appellent communément "courges" et désignent toutes les plantes potagères et d' ornement de la famille des cucurbaticées. Nous nous intéresserons aux formes cultivées et comestibles de cette nombreuse famille: citrouilles, potirons, potimarrons etc... appelées courges d'hiver.

Elles sont originaires d'Amérique et font partie des légumes les plus anciennement connus dont on consomme le fruit soit jeune comme la courgette, soit à maturité après cuisson.

Il en existe trois espéces principales:

  •  Les potirons : certains peuvent atteindre une dizaine de kilos, à la chair jaune-orangé, sucrée et farineuse : tous les potirons, le giraumon, potimarron.
  • Courges musquées à la chair ferme et parfumée : Courge violon ou de Naples et courge musquée de Provence, courge Hubbard, courge spaghetti, courge turban, butternut.
  • Courges pépons ou citrouille, ce sont tous ces légumes-fruits aux formes surprenantes : courgette, coloquinte, pâtisson et chayotte, courge gland et la courge spaghetti.

Cette modeste plante, selon les différentes légendes, appartient à la famille des fondateurs de l'agriculture. En Thaïlande, on raconte la légende de la "courge primordiale" qui contenait toutes les espéces humaines et les textes sacrés et dont les pépins représentaient toutes les variétés de riz.

Chez les Améridiens, il y avait quatre ancêtres fondateurs dont deux, "Tête Chauve comme un hochet de calebasse" donna aux hommes la courge et "Manteau bien Fourré" apprit la culture des champs et distribua les grains de maïs, de haricot, de tournesol et de courge pour que les hommes ne connaissent pas la faim.

Dès le Mésolhitique au Pérou et le Néolhitique au Mexique et en Amérique du Nord, les paysans pratiquent la culture associée du maïs, de la courge et du haricot, "complexe symbolique" que l'on retrouvait également en Hongrie et dans le Sud-Ouest de la France.

Les tiges de courges se couchent au pied du maïs et y prospérent, bien abritées du vent, les haricots s'accrochent aux hampes et s'élèvent vers le soleil. Les légumineuses enrichissent le sol par leurs racines en donnant asile à de nombreuses bactéries nutrifiantes.

Les paysannes les cuisinaient de multiples façons dont une est rapportée par un prètre jésuite, le pére François-Xavier de Charlebois qui écrit de Nouvelle France en 1721 : " Ils ont une espéce de citrouille qui a un goût sucré. On la fait cuire sous la cendre toute entière et on la mange ainsi sans rien y ajouter." C'est peut-être la même recette que celle des Mohawhs et Algonquins : "l'agwissiman", pour cela ils vidaient de leur pépins des petites citrouilles de la taille d'un melon et les remplissaient de miel, de beurre ou de graisse et de cidre alcoolisé et les cuisaient sous la cendre. Ce serait peut-être à essayer !

Les Améridiens firent connaître ces légumineuses aux conquistadors et à partir de 1550, la citrouille et ses consoeurs sont cultivées en Europe et connaissent un engouement remarquable. A l'époque moderne, il y eut une grande vogue des légumes parmi lesquels on trouve les nouvelles espéces de citrouilles et de courges ; en 1730, on peut lire, dans "Le Nouveau Cuisinier roïal et bourgeois" de Massaliot, une recette de potage de citrouille avec des dessins explicatifs. Et dans le potager de Louis XIV, 50 variétés de cucurbitacées étaient cultivées.

Auparavant, les courges étaient consommées autour de la Méditérranée, en particulier dans la cuisine arabe, mais il s'agissait des espéces de l'Ancien Monde, gourde ou callebasse.

Plantes aux tiges traînantes et aux fruits volumineux, on les plante au printemps, les fleurs mâles et femelles poussent sur le même plant mais seules les femelles donnent un fruit. Les courges d'hiver ont une peau épaisse qui protège du froid, l'intérieur est constitué d'une chair qui adhère à l'écorce, des fibres visqueuses et des pépins blancs comestibles et que l'on peut griller et manger salés. La chair est peu calorique et contient des vitamines A, B et C et des sels minéraux : calcium, fer et potassium. Depuis que les hommes cultivent les citrouilles, ils s'en servent comme médicament, en effet ces légumes ont des propriétés antioxydantes, et céphaliques, on les utilise contre les ecchymoses, foulures, entorses et brûlures, mais aussi contre les maux d'oreilles, les diarrhées et fièvres et les problèmes de prostate.

Il faut les acheter compactes, charnues, fermes et lourdes, sans tâche sur la peau et les conserver dans un endroit frais, sec et aéré. Elle se congèle très bien pelée et cuite. Il vaut mieux éviter la cuisson à l'eau qui lui fait perdre sa saveur et préférer la cuisson à la vapeur ou coupée en deux au four dans un cm d'eau, 30 mn selon la rondeur et la maturité. (vous piquez la chair à la fourchette pour vérifier la cuisson).

La multiplicité de taille, forme et couleur entraîne une grande variété de recette, chaque courge a sa particularité culinaire. On peut les manger en soupes, gratins, purées, gnocchis, risotto, bolognaise, tartes, cakes, confitures, flans et gâteaux, beignets.

Finalement ce fruit qui était tombé en désuétude, revient en force et en beauté dans nos assiettes, grâce à des recettes et des accommodements originaux.

 

Ségolène Lefevre

Boire et manger, quelle histoire !


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Vos commentaires


11 10 2007 - 19:58 par Marthe Droz

trs intrigue depuis qq temps surtout depuis que j'ai reu 2 norme espces: une orange/1 verte + toute la magie que m'inspire - est-ce un lgume ou un fruit? depuis ma tendre enfance. Merci.

11 10 2007 - 19:58 par Marthe Droz

trs intrigue depuis qq temps surtout depuis que j'ai reu 2 norme espces: une orange/1 verte + toute la magie que m'inspire - est-ce un lgume ou un fruit? depuis ma tendre enfance. Merci.

22 12 2007 - 00:08 par Besnier Jean Pierre

Je recherche une appellation de courge la Mirville appellation de provence, varit avec laquelle on fait des confitures.Merci
PS: elle est verte claire ovale et les ppins sont dispercs dans la chaire .
Merci d'avance JP Besnier

09 10 2009 - 16:49 par yv58

Les jeunes citrouilles en cours de maturation juste aprs la floraison sont-elles comestibles?
Elles sont de couleur vert clair.

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