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22.01.2006 - magazine-parole-de-lecteur
El Bulli - Mike Tommasi - été 2003

Mike Tommasi, un ami gastronome, est allé chez El Bulli, le célèbrissime restaurant de Ferran Adria. Il vous livre ses passionnantes réactions.

El Bulli, été 2003

12 mois d’attente, une table pour 9 convives entre slowfoodiens, frbviens et iacchosalpins, 25 plats servis, 9 vins dégustés pendant 6 heures d’exposition culinaire, voilà notre soirée El Bulli.

Entouré par la nature sauvage des plages et des calanques de la Cala Montjoi, le restaurant El Bulli est un laboratoire de création culinaire unique au monde, un lieu qui a acquis une telle réputation qu’il peut se permettre d’ouvrir 6 mois de l’année, le soir seulement, pour une saison qui est entièrement bouclée pendant les deux jours en janvier prévus pour les réservations.

La cuisine, toute en bois et inox, est magnifique, peuplée d’étranges
machines. La salle est classique. Pour ne pas se perdre à chaque vague de sensations nouvelles, il faut apprendre le vocabulaire de cet art culinaire contemporain. On ne peut pas s’empêcher de penser à un exercice pédagogique sur les équilibres en bouche et les textures, qui nous emmène à découvrir des ingrédients nouveaux, des techniques nouvelles. Les plats sont remarquables dans leur présentation, c’est le plaisir des yeux, souvent seulement des yeux…

Comme dans une sorte d’atelier du goût, il y a une prise de risque,
annoncée clairement en début de repas : ‘vous n’êtes pas obligés d’aimer tout’. Cette attitude défensive, ce désengagement de toute responsabilité m’a paru étrange, mesquin, un signal d’alarme. En effet le risque est poussé trop loin, sur 25 plats servis, on a eu droit à 3 ou 4 plats excellents, mais aussi à 3 ou 4 plats franchement difficiles à avaler et qui n’étaient pas justifiables dans un établissement trois-étoiles. A ce niveau de cuisine, de reconnaissance et de prix, un grand créateur devrait savoir choisir quelles sont ses créations qui méritent d’être présentées ; du moins, il ne devrait pas servir des plats émétiques.

Le défaut majeur de ce repas est que, paradoxalement, malgré le large spectre de sensations, après un début très prometteur, la monotonie s’installe très vite. Suite à quelques plats croquants et savoureux pour l’apéritif, la texture, la température et l’arôme du reste des mets ne changent pas beaucoup, presque tout est froid, mou et gélatineux et pas très parfumé. Adrian Ferrà est un virtuose des quatre sens en bouche, de la présentation et de la couleur, mais il oublie la texture, les arômes et la chaleur qui est si importante en cuisine pour dégager les arômes. Des erreurs fondamentales, donc.

On remarque également la répétition et l’utilisation excessive de
bizarreries technologiques. On a goûté plusieurs fois la mousse aérienne faite avec le Pacojet, et les bulles de gélatine. Une fois que la technique a été maîtrisée, il faudrait apprendre à s’en servir de façon plus subtile.

La notion de terroir est étrangement absente chez El Bulli. L’ingrédient est un simple support qui doit subir les artifices du chef. Quelques ingrédients rares (espardenyes, truffe) sont utilisés dans des préparations qui n’exaltent pas vraiment leurs caractéristiques uniques, au contraire, on les transforme en autre chose. Ce sont les ingrédients simples (carottes, lentilles) qui sont vraiment mis en valeur par l’imagination du chef.

On regrette que l’effort de création culinaire de Ferran Adrià ne s’étende pas au vin, qui n’a aucune place dans ce restaurant. Avec 25 plats, il est difficile de jouer sur les accords. La carte des vins est superbe, et les marges sont vraiment raisonnables, mais comment choisir ? On a bu du bon vin, mais de façon décalée par rapport au repas. Les sommelier sont relativement passifs, leurs conseils ne servent pas à grande chose, en effet que faire pour marier le beurre de cacahuètes avec du vin ? Pour rester cohérent avec son approche expérimentale au repas, le chef aurait pu présenter à chaque convive 25 éprouvettes de boissons (y compris du vin) choisies pour accompagner parfaitement chaque plat.

Le dessert est sans intérêt.

Assailli par une presse adulatrice et sycophante, des journalistes qui
écoutent sans goûter, le grand chef n’a pas eu le temps de sortir en salle.

Le lendemain tout le monde était d’accord, il fallait (peut-être) y aller
une fois dans sa vie, mais personne n’a envie d’y retourner. On a un
meilleur souvenir du dîner de la veille, un excellent repas de poisson et fruits de mer chez Rafa, petit restaurant caché dans les ruelles de Roses où dominent la fraîcheur absolue des produits et la simplicité de leur préparation à la plancha. On annonce haut et fort dans la presse américaine que Ferrà est le meilleur chef au monde, titre qu’il aurait réussi a soustraire « aux français » ; mais je crois que cette nouvelle date de quelques années. Des amis qui l’ont visité il y a 3-4 ans confirment qu’ilétait vraiment génial. Chez Adrià, la créativité est certainement là, mais elle n’est pas généreuse puisque le repas en est compromis ; El Bulli veut rompre avec la tradition culinaire bourgeoise, mais on a oublié le plaisir d’une cuisine saine savoureuse moderne et inventive autour du bon produit ; El Bulli propose une cuisine techno-esthétique formaliste, sérieuse même quand elle se veut ludique, qui se considère au dessus du plaisir et de la
nutrition. Parfois, le ludisme devient transgression, et la blague est au dépens du client, qui peut éprouver une vraie nausée. La décadence ?

======================================

La soirée en détail :

Brut Nature Gran Reserva 1998 Magnum, D.O. Cava-penedes, Agusti Torrello i Mata.

Un magnum de Cava pour le départ. On fait comprendre au sommelier notre préférence pour des bouteilles normales, histoire de pouvoir déguster beaucoup de vins différents… Le Cava est de bonne facture, sans plus, à vrai dire, c’est fade, et puisque c’est un magnum, il faut le finir vite pour passer à la prochaine bouteille. Et je n’aime pas être pressé avec le vin…

Frappe de agua de pina verde – verre de glace pilée à l’eau de pin

On remarque de suite la qualité du service, ces jeunes sont d’une précision remarquable, on dirait qu’ils font ça depuis des siècles, la machine fonctionne parfaitement, pas un seul hic. Ce premier ‘plat’ est une eau aromatisée aux senteurs de résine, ni douce ni salée, c’est la sensation de froid qui compte. Sensation tactile en bouche : froid, consistance de la glace pilée très finement et qui semble garder sa ‘forme’. Arôme très subtil.

Patatas con aceituna negra y acido citrico – chips de pomme de terre a la tapenade

Le craquant, le salé et l’amer. Les chips sont d’une couleur bronze, elles semblent vernies. La présentation est superbe, tout arrive sur des plaques d’ardoise sculptées et géométriques qui font penser au Japon.

Obleas de frambuesa – médaillons de framboise

Du craquant on passe au fondant, mais on passe aussi à un équilibre
totalement opposé, sucré et acide : des coupelles fines, des hosties rouges au goût intense de framboise qui fondent sur la langue. Un délice.

Crema de cacahuetes con tostadas – toasts avec crème de cacahuètes

Chacun reçoit un tube blanc de crème de cacahuètes, on perce le tube avec le bouchon, comme on ferait avec un dentifrice, et on met la crème sur des tranches de pain grillé. Le pain est craquant, la crème est grasse.
Séparation des sensations tactiles en bouche. On revient sur l’amertume et le salé-sucré. Un seul problème, ce n’est pas bon, du tout, j’aurais préfère du dentifrice. Sûrement une blague, on se moque d’une clientèle riche et blasée qui tout vu, qui a besoin de vomir pour sentir quelque chose ?

Tempura de limon con regaliz – tempura de zestes de citron a la réglisse

Et on revient encore sur l’acidité et une texture encore différente, plus fine avec un tempura bien croustillant mais très fin. Soulagement, après les cacahuètes, ça remet tout en ordre; Excellent.

Ruibarbo a la pimienta – rhubarbe au piment
Retour au sucré-amer, les lamelles de rhubarbe sont couvertes de graines de sucre épicées qui craquent en bouche. Effet réussi.

Oreja de conejo crujiente – oreille de lapin craquante

A ce point nous n’avions pas le menu devant nous, heureusement, je croyais manger des beignets de fleurs de courgette, mais un peu moins souples que d’habitude, et avec des étranges veines. Pas bon du tout, maintenant je suis sur que l’on se moque du client, en lui servant du cartilage. Horrible.

Tornada do Sapo 2001, D.O. Rias Baixas, Valsegar de la Muelas

Un petit tour des cépages d’Espagne, avec en premier un albariño : le Rias Baixas est fruité, mais pas aussi agréable qu’un Terras Gauda O Rosal. Euh, un excellent mariage avec les oreilles de lapin? J’ai ensuite découvert que c’est un vin vendu par des riches négociants de Madrid, qui l’achètent à Gerardo Méndez Lázaro, un petit producteur qui possède des vignes de 150 ans, et que Tornada do Sapo est la marque de negoce de certaines cuvées de Do Ferreiro Cepas Vellas.

Jamon de toro
Tranches très fines de thon, servies sur une feuille de papier, comme du jambon de Parme, mais en bouche on a une consistance plus grasse et moins salée. Fini le craquant, on ne le retrouvera plus pour le reste de la soirée, et c’est bien dommage. Au point que nous devons compenser avec du pain… C’est une des critiques de ce repas extraordinaire : après les mises en bouche avec leur superbe variété de textures, tout devient mou, informe.
On mange beaucoup de pain.

Caviar de manzana – des bulles de gelée de pomme épicées servies dans un vrai pot à caviar iranien marqué ‘imitacion - El Bulli’.
La technologie joue un rôle important dans les préparations de Adrian Ferrà. Personne ne sait comment il arrive a façonner des sphères de gelée de 4mm de diamètre, mais le résultat est ludique. L’apparence, l’imitation, la mémoire. L’art conceptuel à table. Et c'est même bon.

Sardinas bronceadas – sardines bronzées
Encore de l’art visuel : des filets très fins de sardine à peine cuits ou
marinés dans une huile aromatisée et colorée, servis avec leur peau sur une ardoise carrée et couverts d’un carré de papier qui colle à la peau et qui crée l’illusion d’un dessin, deux poissons couleur cuivre sur un fond blanc transparent. Plus visuel que gustatif.

Placet 2000, D.O.Ca. Rioja, Bodegas Palacio Remondo

On continue notre voyage découverte des cépages ibériques avec le viura : un blanc de Rioja fait par l’ancien domaine de famille de Alvaro Palacios, depuis 2000 dirigé par Alvaro et son frère Rafael. Impression minérale, peut-être du beurre.

Niguiri de sepia – nigiri-sushi de seiche
Retour sur le ludique : on nous passe un abaisse-langue en plastique avec au bout un morceau de seiche posé sur une boule de tapioca gélatineux. Trop grand pour être avalé entier, pas bon du tout, la sensation en bouche est gluante, pâteuse, on avale vite en espérant qu’il n’y aura pas de retour… mon épouse devient blanche
d’émétophobie. Pour nettoyer le palais, on nous sert une petite barbe à papa qui enveloppe une feuille de mente, l’effet est génial, et ça fait oublier le sushi visqueux.

Agua de lentejas con foie – eau de lentilles et foie gras
Une tasse à cappuccino avec une gelée de foie gras au fond et de la mousse aérienne d’eau de lentilles. Gélatine et mousse, délicieuse, riche.

Sopa de pomelo con sesamo negro – soupe de pomelo au sésame noir

Retour au visuel, un plat rond de soupe rouge avec des lignes d’huile de sésame grillé noir, contraste de couleurs et de goût, l’acidité du pomelo et l’amertume astringente du sésame, c’est curieux et désagréable. Un plat qui fait plaisir aux yeux mais qui laisse la bouche cassée, rêche. Surtout, il ne faut pas boire de vin avec ce plat.

Pairal 2001, D.O. Penedes, Can Rafols dels Caus

C’est le tour du cépage catalan xarel.lo, un vin nerveux avec une belle acidité et des notes végétales, pas mal de fruit, puissant.

Aire de zanahoria con concentrado de mandarina – air de carotte sur concentré de mandarine
Dans un récipient en verre, une mousse hyper-légère de carotte sembleémerger d’un fond de mandarine de la même couleur. Beau plat, goût intéressant, mais c’est du gadget encore. Le Pacojet travaille les heures sup.

Ravioli de guisantes – raviolis de petits pois
Une cuillère chinoise arrive à peine à tenir en place une sorte de bulle de pâte verte très fine remplie de jus de petits pois. Une merveille
technologique.

Grange des Pères 1998 blanc, VdP Hérault

Un mot : superbe. A la fois délicat et puissant, complexe, frais, cette
rareté est en plus abordable chez El Bulli… un nez vraiment intense et explosif, je n’ai pas retenu toutes les arômes…

Pure de limon, escarola y huevas de mujol – purée de citron, scarolle et poutargue de muge

On joue sur l’amertume de l’escarole et l’acidité du citron, avec la force de la poutargue c’est une excellente salade.

Morralets con sus huevas – poulpes minuscules avec leur ‘œufs’

Superbe plat de petits calamars délicieux servis en cercle autour d’un
grand nombre de bulles de gélatine noire d’encre, simulant les œufs de poulpe. Même technologie que le caviar, encore une imitation réussie. On doit rentabiliser la technologie.

Ostras con ostras y trufas de nuez macadamia - huîtres et truffes de noix de macadamia
Deux huîtres superbes mariées avec les noix, une grande complexité en bouche.

Les terrasses 2000, D.O.Ca. Priorat, Alvaro Palacios

Grenache Carignan Cabernet, on passe aux rouges avec un vin de négoce de Alvaro Palacios, moderne, boisé, avec des senteurs de cassis et de réglisse.

Toro de atun confitado en aceite de atun – filet de thon gras confit dans son huile

Pinzas de buey de mar con cacahuetes y sandia - tourteau avec cacahuètes et pastèque
Encore les cacahuètes. Dommage.

Vignes qu'on abat 1998, A.O.C. Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine de la Marfée

Le nez du carignan est présent, le vin concentré avec des senteurs de chocolat, très beau. C’est vrai que Thierry Hazard est le comptable de la Grange des Pères ?

Espardenyes, mentaiko y ruibarbo– concombres de mer, mentaiko et rhubarbe

Des rares concombres de mer servis avec œufs de morue piquants (mentaiko) et rhubarbe. Dommage qu’ils étaient meilleurs le soir avant, à la plancha, dans un petit troquet du coin.

Canelon de trufa de verano con tuetano y sesos de conejo– cannellone de truffe d’été avec moelle et cerveaux de lapin

Un tube de moelle enveloppé en écailles de truffe, délicieux si on accepte la texture spéciale, servi avec 4 petits cerveaux de lapin cuits à la plancha, assez particuliers et de consistance plus que désagréable. On soupçonne que Adrian veut choquer. J’avoue sentir un début de contractions antipéristaltiques, j’avale vite du pain.

2m de spaghetto de parmesano– spaghetto de 2m de parmesan

Encore sur le ludique, on ne met plus de parmesan sur les spaghetti, c’est le parmesan qui devient un spaghetto géant. Dommage qu’il casse, on ne peut pas l’aspirer en un seul morceau, comme prévu. Heureusement, puisque la consistance est toujours molle, on a envie de mâcher de la viande, heureusement il y a du pain pour donner un peu d’exercice à nos pauvres dents.

Grande cuvée N° 10 1998 Trockenbeerenauslese, Alois Kracher

Le plaisir total. Grande concentration d’acide et de sucre, et pourtant
léger en bouche, faible en alcool, plein d’abricot, vanille, bonbon anglais.

Yuba de coco con vinagre balsamico– yuba de coco avec balsamique

Le yuba est la peau du tofu. Comme la peau du lait bouilli, ça donne la nausée (c’est le thème de la soirée), et le coco n’arrange pas les choses.

Oloroso Dulce Matusalem, D.O. Jerez– Manzanila de San Lucar, Gonzales Byass

Superbe vin de solera très foncé, épicé, puissant, soyeux, doux, arômes de noix, de figue et de réglisse venant du PX, apparemment il est 50% palomino, et il paraît qu’il a au moins 30 ans d’age.

Moras, chocolate blanco y yogur – mûres de ronces, chocolat blanc et yaourt

Retour sur le visuel, le ying et le yang en noir et blanc.

Mignardises
Un ‘pain anglais’ qui ressemble plutôt à une mousse saupoudrée de cannelle. Encore une mousse ! C’est la cinquième de la soirée, le PacoJET travaille sans arrêt. Puis, une baguette creuse anisée servie dans son sac en papier. Enfin du craquant, mais c’est trop tard, c’est la fin.

Mike Tommasi

Six Fours les Plages

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Vos commentaires

22 01 2006 - 10:34 par penglobe

mais où est mon dentifrice, nom d'un chien?

24 01 2006 - 00:30 par Galmiche Hervé

Ouf, ça fait du bien à lire, enfin des avis critiques sur cette cuisine que certains cuisiniers français essaient malheureusement et maladroitement de copier (je pourrais vous décrire un repas chez un étoilé!!)
Bravo aux dégustateurs d'avoir aussi consommés les plats avec leur coeur et leur culture en ne se laissant pas esbrouffé par la réputation de l'endroit et la magie d'avoir pû obtenir une table!
Merci à tous vous m'avez redonné le goût de continuer à cuisiner!Merci Mr Tommasi. Et pendant que j'y suis, merci Patrick. Il est bien ton blog!!

24 01 2006 - 23:43 par Lexic

Ouf ! Ouf !
Devant toute cette mode vaporeuse, transparente et ... chimique je commençais à culpabiliser en cuisinant une daube de boeuf ou un bon pot au feu !
Merci pour ce témoignage je me sentais un peu seul

26 01 2006 - 22:51 par benaim

Je ne retrouve en rien ce j'ai vecu durant toute une soirée en lisant ce compte-rendu.
Ce n'etait pas un repas gastronomique mais une experience culinaire !!!!! Un veritable voyage pour explorer les textures,les goûts,les techniques .
Ce n'ai pas du snobisme que de ne pas avoir boudé ses émotions.
Et derniere chose, je me damnerai toujours pour une daube de queues de boeufs ou un gigot de 7 heures.

03 04 2006 - 12:59 par BENALLAL

je touve assez triste ce commentaire sur adrien ferran car j'ai vecu une experience formidable durant mon stage chez el bulli l'année derniére en qui pour moi fut l'une de mes plus grande éxpérience car c'est la que j'ai appris ce que c'était de partager sans savoir et quand en va manger chez el bulli en mange de la recherche et aussi cela permet de faire avancer la cuisine et de donner un coup de punch a ce que l'on connais mais aussi la ou je reste assez content c'est surtout sur le faite que rien n'est cachée ou que rien n'est mal retrenssmit tout ce que l'on veut savoir en le sait et tout ce que vous avez a partager vous le donner sans qu'ily et de grosse tete la régle de chez el bulli c'est que tout le monde est pareil et c'est ce que je trouve que nos amies chef francais en encore du chemin a faire.le el bulli d'aujourd'hui deviendra le classique de demain.
Amicalement a tout les chefs francais et pardonner ma réaction en ne peut connaitre une cuisine que faisant de la cuisine.

03 04 2006 - 23:11 par pablo

el bulli le classique de demain?
j'ai vraiment du mal à y croire...pas en france en tout cas...
je respire la bonne humeur apres avoir attentivement lu les critiques sur el bulli.
J'en ri encore!une critique egale à la mienne!!!
je pense cependant qu'effectivement comme un de mes predecesseurs le fait remarquer, c'est une experience" culinaire".
et non un repas que l'on peut apprecier comme dans bon nombre de restaurants.
Il faut le faire une fois et laisser sa (couteuse)place aux suivants...
sur ce, amis epicuriens,

10 10 2006 - 21:54 par eric

Je suis comblé par la précision de la critique, de haute volée.
Cependant, la limite de cette critique est son sacarsme qui marque le manque d'ouverture d'esprit de son auteur. Que l'on aime pas un plat est une chose, que l'on fasse du sarcasme sur la mode El Bulli en est une autre. Je pense qu'Adria est un cuisinier honnête, fidèle à ses convictions, et on ne peut pas lui reprocher d'être à la mode, puisqu'il pratique du contemporain, mais bien aux medias, et aux autres chefs dont des stars françaises de l'avoir élu meilleur cuisinier du monde !
El Bulli n'est pas un restaurant parfait. C'est de la cuisine contemporaine et doit être pris comme tel. Le comparer à un restaurant de poisson grillé, c'est comme comparer un peintre contemporain de niveau mondial et un petit peintre régionaliste, ca n'a pas grand chose à voir, les 2 apportent des plaisirs très différents.
J'ai très apprécié la soirée que j'ai passé là-bas, je n'étais d'ailleurs à l'époque pas du tout au courant sur tout le battage médiatique dont le resto fait l'objet. Service discret et efficace, sur le nombre de "tapas", il y a bien sûr des bonnes et des moins bonnes surprises. Adria fait peu de croquant ( sauf quand c'est du froid négatif). Certains plats sont des innovations technologiques, donc ils vont être copiés, et perdront tout intérêt chez El Bulli. D'autres resteront, car au délà de l'innovation, ce sont des plats intemporels, il y en aura peu.
Quand je vais dans un musée contemporain ou dans un muséee 18ème, j'ai à peu près le même nombre de tableau qui me touchent profondément, c'est à dire très peu. Dans les grands resto, c'est pareil. Et là, il y a 2 ou 3 tapas qui ont marqué durablement mes papilles.

22 11 2006 - 17:30 par johann

bonjour,
je me rejoui de voir de telles critiques a propos d'EL BULLI,je suis moi meme cuisinier et je m'interesse a cette nouvelle cuisine ,mais i y a des limites et la farce a ete assez longue!!!revenons aux casseroles et laissons les chimiste dans leurs labo et par pitie qu'ils nous laissent tranquilles dans nos cuisines!!!
Je pense qu'il ya assez de place pour ces deux mondes que sont la gastronomie et la cuisine moleculaie mais que l'un ne va pas avec l'autre...

28 11 2006 - 22:46 par hebbelinck c

Pour moi que la cuisine est de l art............... ferran a une vision differente de celle de bocuse, ducasse et j en passe........... picasso n a pas peint du dali....... pourquoi il devrait faire comme les autres.......... c est la qu il est grand pour moi!!! un cuisinier doit affirmer ca cuisine..........

07 12 2006 - 22:09 par maloud

Adrià a un grand et seul handicap. Ne pas être français.
J'ai déjà diné à El Bulli et séjourné à Benazuza. Magnifique!

21 07 2007 - 16:13 par Pac

Je ne suis jamais allé diner chez Ferran Adria, je ne le souhaite pas et je ne pense pas y aller non plus même si l'on m'y invitait. Je n'en fais pas du tout une question de principe, cette "cuisine" ne me tente pas, c'est tout. Je me garderai donc de tout commentaire sur sa "nourriture" qui me semble tout droit avoir été livré en soucoupe volante...
Je me suis bien régalé en tout cas en lisant l'expérience vécue de Mike Tommasi!

Pour répondre aux avis avertis de ceux qui y sont allé, d'accord pour appeller cela "expérience", mais dans ce cas, débaptisé "Restaurant" en "Laboratoire"...

23 07 2007 - 16:28 par sborgnanera

"et je ne pense pas y aller non plus même si l'on m'y invitait. Je n'en fais pas du tout une question de principe"

si : ça s'appellle justement une question de principe, d'a priori.

"El Bulli n'est pas un restaurant parfait. C'est de la cuisine contemporaine et doit être pris comme tel. Le comparer à un restaurant de poisson grillé, c'est comme comparer un peintre contemporain de niveau mondial et un petit peintre régionaliste, ca n'a pas grand chose à voir"

+1

"Adria fait peu de croquant"

C'est vraiment ça qui est gonflant, outre les plats qui font entre 1 et 3 bouchées : pour apprecier, il faut de la mache et de la longueur.

Ferran, c'est du mou et du tiede dans 80% des cas et à la fin, ca fini par lasser...

Perso, je dirai Ferran la première fois, c'est étonnant, la deuxième lassant et la troisième gonflant

24 11 2007 - 03:18 par drix

Je suis Patissier depuis 14 ans, la cuisine molléculaire (nouvelle cuisine) á aussi pour principe de comprendre les réactions des aliments (pourquoi doit on laisser reposer un morceaux de viande aprés cuisson, comment cuire une oeufs á la coque parfait, pourquoi une mayonnaise monte etc...) tous ces phénoménes sont des réactions chimique!!!

Ferran Adria á inventé de nouvelles textures et procédés, la cuisson sous vide me permet de servir une pomme macérée ou non, chaude et cuite mais croquante comme une pomme crue.
Avec les syphons, crémes chaudes, azote liquide, spaghettis sans farine c'est un show en effet Ce genre de cuisine n'est pas pour manger tout les jours, c'est une expérience culinaire, allez vous manger tout les jours dans un 3 macarons ???
Mais nous aussi derriére nos fourneaux ont veux s'amuser, surprendre le client avec autre chose.

23 12 2007 - 22:33 par FEYBESSE

Débat trés interessant mais ne croyez vous pas que Picasso, Tapiès, Dali, Gaudi ont été eux aussi trés critiqués pour leur audace ? Si la cuisine est un art laissons les artistes s'exprimer ...
Moi pauvre cisinier amateur et sans fortune aimerait bien y gouter a cette experience catalane même dans un laboratoire !!!

Christian amateur de découvertes ....

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investigation had determined that Sencion had not singled out the guardsmen, who were sitting together together
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commander said that he had issued an order after the shooting for soldiers to not not uggs shop not wear their uniforms off base and extra security was added to the base.Furlong said
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Sencion's family members about potential mental illness. Furlong said the family is cooperating and is is cheap uggs uk is grieving.Gunman Kills 5, Wounds 6 At Carson City IHOPEleven people were shot during the
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