28.12.2005 - restaurant-repas
Château de Divonne , dîner du 13 décembre 2005Je suis seul pour ce dîner et le maître d'hôtel me signale que le chef m'a préparé un menu. Et le sommelier me propose un verre de vin avec chaque plat. Asseyez-vous à côté de moi, on va déguster.
Remarque liminaire en forme de question : le maître d'hôtel est une charmante jeune femme. Comme dit-on ? Maîtresse d'hôtel ?
Mâcon Loché Domaine Tripoz 2003
Etonnant ce Mâcon Loché, vif, élégant, très typé Mâcon, pas boisé et très persistant. Un très beau vin dont je me suis régalé.
Quatre bricoles :
- chutney ananas / raisin : sans grand intérêt et l'accord ne fonctionne pas du tout,
- soupe à la tomate verte et olive noire : Original et intéressant, d'autant plus que l'accord se fait sur la fraîcheur,
- tapenade olives vertes : avec le vin une certaine harmonie se dessine, mais la bouchée en elle-même ne casse pas trois pattes à un canard,
- tartelette au caviar d'aubergine : tartelette sympatique, mais le vin domine outrageusement.
Côtes du Jura "Chardonnay" Domaine Grand frères 2003
Vin assez moyen, de très courte persistance.
Cappuccino de cèpes aux châtaignes de Collobrières.
Souvent, quand les chefs ont préparé un menu pour moi, je choisis quand même un plat de la carte, un peu comme pour mettre une figure imposée entre les figures libres. Pour ce repas, c'est ce cappuccino qui se présente avec de gros morceaux de cèpes bouchon et de petits morceaux de châtaignes. L'ensemble est très goûteux et remarquablement élégant.
Curieusement, le vin se révèle avec le plat, pour un accord fondu très agréable.
Côtes du Rhône blanc "Belleruche" 2003 Maison Chapoutier
C'est souvent sur les "petites" appellations que les négociants font preuve de leur talent. Ce Côtes du Rhône est très typé marsanne, franc et de persistance honorable.
Queues d'écrevisses recouvertes d'une mousse légère de chou-fleurs, caviar de hareng et extraits de cresson.
Je suis surpris car cette entrée très esthétique est froide. La crème de chou fleur est excellente, les écrevisses moins fades que souvent, et le caviar de hareng donne la note iodée qui apporte la vivacité à l'ensemble. Pour ne rien gâcher, l'accord en complémentarité fonctionne bien.
Pessac-Leognan blanc Château Baret 2003
Vin de peu d'arôme et déséquilibré sur l'alcool. En revanche, sa persistance est remarquable, ce qui me fait penser qu'il peut être aidé par un long carafage.
Coquilles Saint-Jacques aux parfums de Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, émulsion d'huile picholine.
Deuxième surprise, ce plat est à peine tiède, ce qui lui va très bien. Les Saint-Jacques sont très belles et bien cuites. Cependant je trouve que le plat manque un peu de mordant. Une huile un peu plus amère aurait-il changé quelque chose ?
L'accord ne se fait pas, la vin et le plat ne se mêlant nullement.
Anjou blanc Château de Putille 2004.
Quel dommage que le nez fleure si nettement le soufre. Sinon, ce vin est vif, net et de persistance normale pour l'appellation.
Pavé de sandre rôti au panais confit, jus de viande.
Très beau plat : beau poisson bien cuit, légumes exceptionnels (crosnes, panais, topinambours), jus réduit de viande extra. On se régale vraiment.
Le vin domine, mais l'accord est plutôt agréable, d'autant plus que le jus de viande revient en rétro olfaction.
Mercurey Premier Cru Château Mipont 2003.
Très joli nez. Très beau vin élégant, d'un grand équilibre. Persistance remarquable.
Noisette d'agneau de lait, oignons grelot et tombée de courgette.
Viande superbe. Oignons légèrement caramélisés de toute beauté, courgettes dans la simplicité. le plus beau plat du repas, encore une fois parce que c'est sans doute le plus simple.
L'accord est bien, sans plus ; le vin s'en trouve un peu diminué.
Côtes du Jura "savagnin" Domaine Grand 2000.
Vin très correct, mais un peu court.
Chariot de fromages.
Très beau chariot à deux étages. Détaillons mon assiette :
De haut en bas, et de gauche à droite :
- époisses (16/20)
- bleu basque (espagnol ?) (14/20)
- mâconnais affiné (13/20)
- tomme des Bauges (15/20)
- mimolette vieille (17/20)
Tout s'accorde avec le vin, même le bleu.
Mousse banane et ganache chocolat.
Sympathique.
Soufflé chaud au Grand-Marnier, marmelade d'orange amère et son granité.
Le granité est un modèle du genre. En revanche, la marmelade est quelconque et j'ai mangé de meilleurs soufflés.
Conclusion : le "coeur" du repas est très bon, très classique, avec deux très grands plats. Les mises en bouche et les desserts peuvent grandement progresser.
Le service très jeune est parfait, quoiqu'un peu "coincé", ce qui n'est pas forcément un défaut pour la majorité de la clientèle d'un tel établissement.
Pas d'avis particulier sur les tarifs, puisque le directeur m'invite. Néanmoins, il me semble que ce restaurant a été plus cher par le passé.
Château de Divonne
01220 DIVONNE-LES-BAINS
Tél : +33 450 200 032
Fax : +33 450 200 373
divonne@grandesetapes.fr
http://www.grandes-etapes-francaises.fr/chateau_divonne/fr
Propriétaires : Famille Traversac
Directeur : Stéphane Cateux
Directeur de salle : Dominique Moinel
Sommelier : Silvio Roussette
Chef : Laurent Belissa
Michelin 2003 : 3 châteaux + 1 macaron
Michelin 2004 : 3 châteaux + 1 macaron
Michelin 2005 : 3 châteaux + 1 macaron
GaultMillau 2003 : 15/20
GaultMillau 2004 : 15/20
GaultMillau 2005 : 15/20
GaultMillau 2006 : 15/20
Guide Hubert 2003 : 3 assiettes couronnées
Guide Hubert 2004 : 4 assiettes
Guide Hubert 2005 : classement en attente
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 09 04 2007 - 23:30 par DDCRF
Le "caviar de hareng" est une appellation illégale et son fabricant espagnol, "Pescaviar" ainsi que son importateur en France, les Ets Sidné, ont tous deux été verbalisés pour tromperie. Ce dernier a d'ailleurs adressé à tous ses clients un courrier rectificatif pour les en informer. En effet, leur produit ne sont pas des oeufs de harengs mais un produit micronisé à base de chair de hareng fumé. D'ailleurs, je suis étonné qu'un gastronome comme vous ne sache pas que les oeufs de hareng ne sont pas noirs et se fasse avoir ! Il est d'ailleurs plus étonnant que des grands chefs triplement étoilés soient aussi "ignorant" et se prêtent à cette propagande sur ce produit, certes bon, mais qui au départ était une "escroquerie" dénoncée à nos service par Armel PETROSSIAN (les espagnols de chez Pescaviar, fabriquant de ce produit, l'ont présenté au Sial et le vendaient sur leur stand avec un esturgeon dans un aquarium !)
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