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La revue de presse de Jean-Pierre Dubarry # 251

Depuis plusieurs années, mon ami Jean-Pierre Dubarry fait une revue de presse hebdomadaire consacrée au vin et dans une moindre mesure à la gastronomie. Voici l'opus 251.

Chronique (souvent) bordelaise - n° 251– 16 juillet 2006

1 – Espoir et perplexité à Saint Estèphe.

Selon le Journal du Médoc, un investisseur déjà présent en Champagne, Vallée

du Rhône et Médoc ( vous pensez à qui ?), propose de reprendre la totalité

des activités de la cave coopérative de Saint Estèphe et Vertheuil et

propose des conditions de partenariat extrémenent favorables aux actuels

viticulteurs-coopérateurs, pour créer une marque haut de gamme.

Note jpd : Après tout, une coopérative n’est qu’une winery détenue par les

apporteurs de raisins et réciproquement.

2 – Une liste non exhaustive de valeurs sûres (à moins de 25 € HT la

bouteille prix public) qui ont gardé la tête froide, à la fin du dossier

Primeurs 2005.

3 – A 3,5 euros chez Carrefour, le millésime 2000, une vigne cultivée à la

charrue et sans désherbants. Il n’y avait pas à hésiter. C’est un honnête

Côtes de Bourg, peut-être pas totalement caractéristique de l’appellation

mais agréable, ce château La Croix de Pawlowski. C’est aussi l’œuvre de

Joseph Pawlowski qui semble une «figure» ; parcelles de vieilles vignes

préphylloxphériques pour certaines, paraît-il ; barriques en noyer, etc.

pour en savoir plus :

Cliquez et choisissez ensuite la date du10/06/06

A regarder, ça en vaut la peine.

4 – Jean –Pierre Moueix, décédé il y a 2 ans, n’était pas seulement acheteur

de châteaux. Il s’intéressait aussi à la peinture et laisse une collection

très belle dit-on. En exécution de ses volontés, la famille vient de

remettre au Musée de Beaux Arts de Bordeaux, Cinq toiles de Marquet,

peintre local de renommée internationale. Des œuvres estimées autour de 10

000 euros chacune.

5 – Cinq caves coopératives du beaujolais entrent au capital d’OVS (Opéra

vins et spiritueux), lequel devrait élargir la gamme Chamarré

Au total, OVS regroupe 12.000 viticulteurs sur 32.000 ha produisant 2,1

millions d'hectolitres. A l'automne prochain, des caves coopératives des

Côtes du Rhône devraient rejoindre OVS qui a pour ambition, avec des vins «

faciles » et sous la marque unique « Chamarré », de concurrencer les

productions du Nouveau Monde.

6a – Le projet de «Pôle de Compétitivité mondiale», Inov’Vin, aurait été

remis à la Préfecture de Gironde pour prise en compte dans le prochaine

vague de sélection nationale.

A lire sa présentation dans la presse, on se dit qu’il sera difficile de lui

donner un riche contenu. C’est assez normal, cette opportunité vient juste

après la formalisation autour de l’Institut des Sciences de la vigne et du

vin. Trop tard pour construire le projet de pôle autour de l’Institut

(encore que), trop tôt pour qu’émergent de réelles nouveautés. C’est le coté

pervers de ces procédures de pôle que les pouvoirs publics font resurgir

périodiquement. Elles négligent la continuité du temps.

6b - Concernant L’ISVV, cliquez

6c – A propos de pôle de développement, où en est le projet Ampélopolis ?

7– Nouveau cépage INRA obtenu à Bordeaux, le Folignan est autorisé pour la

production du Cognac. Seuls, quelques cépages sont autorisés pour la

production de Cognac. Après quarante années de recherches menées à l'INRA

Bordeaux-Aquitaine, en collaboration avec les professionnels du monde

viticole, le Folignan est devenu par décret (du 13 septembre 2005) un

nouveau cépage autorisé pour la production du Cognac. Pour la première fois,

une obtention INRA obtient une autorisation en AOC.

8 – Les AOC sont prospectées par les fabricants de miss

La Touraine est la première a tenter l'aventure avec Miss

Aoc Touraine primeur 2006, début novembre, et c'est sérieux, le site

d'InterLoire le référencie.

….. y aura-t-il beaucoup de candidates pour Miss Fourme d'Ambert et Miss

Olive de Nice, titres également envisagés.

9 - Le réseau vigne et vin au sein des structures de l’enseignement public

agricole

note jpd : Intéressant, mais peut-être à actualiser et à dynamiser

10 – Agenda – Allez sur

http://www.chateauloisel.com/xtra/salons-vins.htm
et sur
http://www.vitisphere.com/agenda.php

- le 2 3 juillet, Fête du Vin et des Métiers d'Art à Puisserguier (34)

- les 31 juillet, 6 et 15 août 2006, les « Trois glorieuses du Sancerrois »,

tourisme.berry@cdt18.tv, à Verdigny, Bué et Sury en Vaux. Les trois fêtes

traditionnelles du Sancerrois. Premières à ouvrir le bal "Les Grappes

Nouvelles" à Verdigny

- Le 30 juillet, - "Créations en fête" (manifestation autour de l'art et du

vin) à Aigne où une exposition sur les Circulades sera présentée.

- Au delà de l'été :

.. 1° septembre, en principe, Ouverture du complexe oenotouristique de

Marquès de Riscal, en Rioja.

.. le 3 septembre, 11 randonnées savoureuses en Val de Loire, des vignerons

font partager leur passion, leur terroir, leur savoir-faire, à travers des

paysages classés au Patrimoine Mondial de l’Humanité par l’Unesco.

info@canetti.com

.. Le 9 septembre, 22° Marathon du Médoc

.. le lundi 11 Septembre, à Bordeaux, 2° édition des Livrables Rive Gauche -

Rive Droite

.. les 16 et 17 septembre 2006, Journées du Patrimoine sur le thème :

"Faisons vivre notre patrimoine"- Pouvez-vous signaler ce qui est organisé

dans votre région autour des thèmes de la vigne et du vin - Merci

.. du vendredi 29 au dimanche 1er octobre, à Chevreuse,

" Salon Nobles Vignes ", 1er salon des Vins de France, des Vieux Millésimes.

0 825 825 958.

.. Le 1° octobre à Tranzault (Indre), Vendanges de la vigne conservatoire de

la société pomologique

.. les 20 et 21 octobre au Crédit municipal, à Paris, vente des vins des

caves de la ville de Paris (si rien n’arrête ce sacrilège démagogique). La

quasi-totalité de ces bouteilles ont été achetées de 1977 à 2001 par Bernard

Bled, secrétaire général de la Ville sous Jacques Chirac, puis directeur de

cabinet de Jean Tiberi.

.. le 26 octobre, l'écomusée du Véron propose un film, "Lignes de Vignes",

documentaire sur la viticulture, réalisé à partir de témoignages des

habitants du Saumurois: vendanges, vinification, moments festifs, loges de

vigne… - ecomusee@cc-veron.fr

.. les 24 et 25 Novembre 2006, à Paris, Salon des grands vins dans une

nouvelle formule www.legrandtasting.com et www.crus-bourgeois.com

11 - Dans la presse quotidienne

- Le Monde daté

du 12 Juillet, dans le 2 ° volet du Dictionnaire amoureux de la

mythologie parle de Dionysos, dieu de la vigne et de l'ivresse.

du 15 juillet reprend l’info sur la ventes du vin des caves de la

ville de Paris, «C'est l'une des plus belles caves de France avec celle de

l'Elysée. Dans les sous-sols de l'Hôtel de Ville de Paris dorment 4 000

grands crus : Romanée-Conti, Château Petrus, Château-Margaux,

Mouton-Rothschild, champagnes millésimés Krug ou Ruinart... Certaines

bouteilles valent jusqu'à 1 500 euros … vente aux enchères aura lieu les 20

et 21 octobre au Crédit municipal…. la moitié du produit de la vente,

estimée à 500 000 euros, sera consacrée à la lutte contre l'alcoolisme.»

- Le Figaro daté

du 15 juillet fait la saga de «Cointreau, marque mondiale»,

distillerie fondée en 1849 mais la célèbre liqueur n’a été créée qu’en 1875.

et Madame Figaro signale quelques producteurs de vin de pays

charentais de l’Ile d’Oléron, ainsi que, sur la même île, le brasseur de la

«bière des naufrageurs».

- Les Echos daté

du 10 juillet indique que Kronenbourg va céder le site de

Champigneulles à l'allemand Frankfurter Brauhaus, spécialiste des bières

d’entrée de gamme.

Du 12 juillet décrit le nouveau marketing de Krug. La maison de

champagne, née en 1843, tout en revendiquant un goût bien spécifique loin

des modes, modernise son image et cherche à s'ouvrir à un public plus large.

Points notables «Krug room » dans restaurant à Londres, bientôt à Paris et

en Italie ; les passionnés se disent krugistes ; malle pique-nique de haut

luxe, 30 exemplaires ; fortes augmentation des achats de raisin qui aura des

incidences sur les possibilités de vente vers 2012 ; vinification en petits

fûts de chêne pendant 3 mois.

- L’Expres-mag n°2871 signale les vins du Domaine de l’Espérance dans les

Landes (je suis curieux de savoir quelles sensations donne

un rosé saignée fait avec du tannat) et Clos le Joncal en Côtes de Bergerac

12 - Revues du vin ou en parlant :

- In Vino Véritas n° 119

.. teste les 2005 et fait son top 100 ; à noter un «fabuleux» Elisa du

Château Launay issu de très vieilles muscadelles. Autre fabuleux :

Berliquet.

.. s’intéresse aux 2005 de la Vallée du Rhône

.. part dans l’est de l’Autriche chercher des liquoreux

.. Donne le palmares du concours Pineau des Charentes 20006

.. fait des découverte en Languedoc (Domaine La Borie Fuisseau) et en Corse

(Mélusine de Florence Guidicelli)

; parle des appellations provençales en rouge, de vins d’Afrique du sud et

du Domaine Rivera dans les Pouilles

.. déguste des Tokaji

.. lance la pub 3 D : Denis Dubourdieu Domaines

- L’Amateur de Bordeaux fête son numéro 100, je l’ai feuilleté sans repérer

d’article que j’aurais envie de signaler.

13 – Pour découvrir les vins de l’Ardèche

14a – Panorama sur la viticulture corse

14 b - Le Domaine du Mont Saint Jean, associé au groupement des Vignerons

Corsicans, a décidé de revaloriser le cépage corse ancestral Aleatico et

lance un vin monocépage

15 -"Le Raisin d’Or" (6° édition) * réunira, du 7 au 10 septembre 2006, au

Château de Jidvei, en Roumanie, les ensembles folkloriques des régions

viticoles européennes. Les régions bénéficiant de tels groupes sont

sollicitées pour susciter leur inscription

* à ne pas confondre avec www.raisindor.org

16 – Des sommeliers en société et avec un musée. www.vins-emotions.com

note jpd : Je ne suis pas sur que l’idée, intéressante, aille bien au delà

de la réalisation du site et soit portée par une grande dynamique. Qui

connaît ?

17 - Francis Mer, ancien d’Arcelor et ancien ministre des finances, devient

président du conseil de surveillance d’oenoalliance

18 - Wine Blogging Wednesday

Il y a deux ans, un blogueur en «vins» de l'État de New York, Lenn Thompson,

a eu une idée de génie: proposer une dégustation collective avec un thème

précis, à laquelle tous les blogueurs intéressés pourraient participer et

relater leur expérience sur leur propre blogue.

19 – Suivant le conseil de Pan-pan, je suis allé voir les archives de

l'Humanité. Certains articles sont à lire, par exemple :

www.humanite.fr/journal/2004-12-18/2004-12-18-453212

www.humanite.fr/journal/2005-08-13/2005-08-13-812014

+ = + =+ = + =+ = + =+ = + =+ = + =+ = + =+ = + =+ = + =

Visitez les sites ayant une rubrique actualités :

**(L)** repère les sites proposant une lettre gratuite

http://www.agrisalon.com **(L)**

http://www.elitewine.com

http://www.journee-vinicole.com **(L)**

a – Nomination des 30 membres du Conseil national de la viticulture de

France

b - Assemblée Générale constitutive du Syndicat des producteurs de vins de

pays de l’Atlantique.Il comprend trois catégories d’adhérents : les chais

particuliers, les caves coopératives et les négociants vinificateurs.

L’avant projet de décret du vin de pays de l’Atlantique a par ailleurs été

adopté à l’unanimité.

c - L’Université Paul Cézanne Aix-Marseille III organise en partenariat avec

l’Université du Vin de Suze-la-Rousse un Master Professionnel spécialité «

Droit de la vigne et du vin ». scoladroit.master2@univ-cezanne

d - 12ème Challenge des Maîtres de Chais à Coutras (33)

e - Alain Vironneau, viticulteur président du Conseil Interprofessionnel du

vin de Bordeaux …Après une longue carrière dans l’armée de l’air, Alain

Vironneau a pris en main en 1984, les Châteaux Majureau-Sercillan et

Tarreyrots, en appellation Bordeaux et Bordeaux supérieur.

Logique retour aux sources, pour cet homme de 54 ans, issu d’une famille de

viticulteurs.

Devenu président en 2002 du Syndicat des Bordeaux et Bordeaux Supérieur

tions.

f - …. Les vins sud-africains jouent la carte de la biodiversité. La

campagne, qui s’articule autour de l’accroche « Variety is in our nature »,

s’inscrit dans le cadre d’une nouvelle approche promotionnelle basée sur la

mise en valeur de la biodiversité en Afrique du Sud.

« Contrairement à bon nombre d’autres campagnes consacrées au vin, les

visuels ne font pas apparaître les images traditionnelles de vignobles

accompagnés d’une bouteille », affirme WOSA. En l’occurrence, nous utilisons

des visuels qui mettent en exergue le patrimoine botanique de l’Afrique du

Sud, soit plus de 9 600 fleurs magnifiques qui sont, pour la plupart,

spécifiques aux régions viticoles ». www.bwi.co.za

g - La Commission européenne a approuvé 31 programmes de promotion des

produits agricoles dans l’UE … Pour le vin, 3 programmes ont été approuvés

en faveur de l’Espagne (Institut del cava : budget total de 1,8 million d’€

sur 3 ans), l’Italie (Federdoc : près de 0,9 million d’€ sur 2 ans), et la

Hongrie (Tokaj Vinum Hungaricum Egyesület Vin : budget total de 1,1 million

d’€ sur 3 ans).

h - Le Conseil national de la viticulture de France s’est réuni pour la

première fois mardi 11 juillet sous la présidence du ministre de

l’Agriculture et de la Pêche.

i - Cinq caves coopératives du Beaujolais ont été séduites par la volonté

d’OVS de vendre l’appellation Beaujolais sous la marque Chamarré ….

http://www.oeno.tm.fr

http://www.pro-wine.com

http://www.sommelier-france.org

http://www.sudouest.com

a - Mis à part le fait qu'il ne s'agissait pas d'un fonds de pension, c'est

bel et bien un investisseur américain, fortuné, Steve Adams, qui au

printemps 2004, a acquis le château Fonplégade, grand cru classé de

Saint-Emilion, jusque là propriété depuis cinq décennies de la famille

Moueix …. Fonplégade est le seul grand cru classé de Saint-Emilion a être

ainsi ouvert au public en permanence. « Nous l'avons souhaité avant tout

pour une question d'image, explique Joël Palous. L'aspect économique n'est

pas considérable, mais nous souhaitons que chaque personne qui visitera

Fonplégade en véhicule ensuite la meilleure image possible. ». Les visites

sont proposées en quatre langues (français, anglais, allemand, espagnol) ….

dès le début, le visiteur a été pris en compte. « Nous avons non seulement

voulu refaire entièrement les chais, mais le faire en faisant en sorte que

cela forme un véritable circuit de visite » précise Marion Bechu, « Et tout

un programme de visites sur mesures, conduites par des professionnels, a été

mis en place. »

b – Plus de cinquante oenologues, cavistes, responsables qualité se sont

retrouvés pour le 12e Challenge des Maîtres de Chais, au Centre OEnologique

de Coutras. Cette rencontre était placée sous le signe de la convivialité,

avec au programme, la dégustation de 150 vins produits par quarante-et-une

caves coopératives d'Aquitaine et des Charentes, pour désigner les meilleurs

dans les catégories blancs secs 2005, rosés 2005, rouges 2004 et rouges

boisés 2004.

http://www.terre-net.fr/homepage/default.asp?id_chaine=3

http://www.vinomedia.fr/lettre-vinomedia **(L)**

http://www.viti-net.com

http://www.vitisphere.com **(L)**

a - Le phylloxera a été détecté dans un vignoble de Murchison, au nord de la

région de Victoria en Australie du Sud. …70% du vignoble sud-australien est

vulnérable au phylloxera car il est planté franc de pied.

b - Signée en décembre 2003 dans le Val de Loire, la Charte Internationale

de Fontevraud sur la protection, la gestion et la valorisation des paysages

de la vigne et du vin intéresse d’autres vignobles, notamment dans le Jura,

en Bourgogne et en Suisse…..

c - Election serrée à Vinifhlor - Jean Louis Vallet (DG de la Maison Johanes

Boubee) a présenté sa candidature au nom des entreprises de négoce. Pour la

première fois à l'Office National des Vins, des représentants de la

production ont soutenu, le candidat des entreprises de négoce. Il a fallu

les voix des représentants de l'Administration (qui en général

s'abstiennent) pour que Jérome Despey, représentant des producteurs, soit

élu.

http://www.wineatlas.net/fr

http://www.wineinstitute.org

http://www.elmundovino.com/elmundovino

++++++++++++++++++++++++

Signalé par Google :

a – Possibilité de souscrire à la réédition, revue et augmentée, de "Le Vin

dans ses œuvres".

b – "Itinéraire spiritueux", Gérard Oberlé, Editions Grasset, Sortie le 1er

septembre 2006

c – Souple, frais, avec une saveur de petits fruits rouges, le « rosé » sans

alcool se consomme à l’ombre avec des tapas ou des grillades... ….l'Union

des Caves Coopératives de l'Ouest Audois et du Razès (UCCOAR)

d – C’était le « roi du beaujolais … est un tricheur. Le tribunal

correctionnel de Villefranche-sur-Saône l’a condamné pour « tromperie sur

l’origine et la qualité des vins » . Son crime : avoir effectué des mélanges

de raisins interdits par les règles de l’Institut national des appellations

d’origine (Inao), qui délivre les AOC. Hervé Bizeul, figure montante de la

viticulture « nouvelle génération », avec son domaine du Clos des Fées,

fulmine : « On nous rebat les oreilles avec la crise du vin en France, et on

le condamne comme un voleur ! »

d – En rachetant le producteur français via sa société d'investissement

installée à l'île Maurice, McDowell devient également propriétaire de

Chapin-Landais, une filiale de Bouvet-Ladubay.

Installé depuis 1851 dans la vallée de la Loire, Bouvet-Ladubay produit

notamment du Saumur brut ou du Crémant de Loire

- note jpd : qui sait comment McDowell se situe dans United Breweries ?

e – Balzac et le vin http://vinsdeloire.info/news/294.shtml

f - Laurent Cerqueu à Montbazon sur 200 références, 250 à terme, on ne

trouve même que 15 à 20 % de vins du Val de Loire … Son critère de choix

n'est donc pas géographique mais Laurent Cerqueu s'intéresse avant tout aux

vins bio, qui représentent plus de 90 % de ses références.

g – L'Institut français des Appellations d'Origine se constitue partie

civile dans le scandale ou le prétendu scandale des vins améliorés . … le

groupe belge Roger Geens, accusé, mais il nie, d'avoir, pendant 20 ans,

importé en Belgique pour les écouler en grandes surfaces de 3 à 5 millions

de bouteilles de vin amélioré par des produits chimiques. Trafiqué avec de

la fleur d'oranger et de la poudre irritante, le Bordeaux était vendu sous

de fausses appellations ou des noms de châteaux fictifs. Cette constitution

de partie civile espère relancer une enquête à vrai dire immobile depuis 54

mois.

++++++++++++++++++++++++

Trouvé par wikio

a - Ces soirées permettent aux gourmands de découvrir le très surprenant

blanc sec 2005 du Château Malromé …

Réservations vivement conseillées au 05 56 76 44 92.

b – La recette du fameux miot de Touraine. Une soupe de vin froide à essayer

avec un gamay ou un grolleau rouge

c - Le site internet Plein champs vous informe des démarches qualité que

viennent d'entreprendre les viticulteurs Auvergnats

d - Le Dr Charles Wysocki du Monell Chemical Senses Center de Philadelphie

affirme que l’humain peut sentir des milliers d’odeurs différentes.

Toutefois, ajoute-t-il, les arômes du vin ne sont pas les mêmes pour tous et

sont perçu de façon différentes par chacun. Il a expliqué lors d’un

symposium des Masters of Wine à Napa qu’un grand nombre de personnes ne

peuvent détecter des odeurs que d’autres apprécient ou détestent

e - Loue à la semaine, Gîte troglodyte, 4 épis Gîtes de France, dans

ancienne propriété vigneronne du 18 è, insolite, mais de tout confort,

village pittoresque sur les bords de la Loire, entouré des vignes du vin de

Vouvray, ….

Jean-Pierre Dubarry

Voir aussi

La revue de presse # 233 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 234 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 235 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 236 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 237 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 238 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 239 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 240 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 241 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 242 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 243 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 244 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 245 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 246 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 247 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 248 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 249 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

La revue de presse # 250 de Jean-Pierre Dubarry

Vos commentaires

05 12 2006 - 11:06 par Massot Marc

Je suis le Directeur de la société Vins Emotions. Je vous remercie pour "l'idée intéressante" de la création société et du Musée de la Sommellerie.
L'entreprise Vins Emotions est nouvelle avec un concept innovant en France. Le site www.vins-emotions.com suit une progression remarquable.
Pour la "grande dynamique" de la société, elle est forte et motivée. Les activités augmentent et le sérieux des sommeliers professionnels font de Vins Emotions une grande référence. Nous préférons fournir un service de qualité en envoyant que des sommeliers plutôt que de faire un grand chiffre en envoyant des personnes qui ne connaissent rien au vin. Nous vous invitons à prendre contact avec nous pour vous rendre compte de la dynamique et du savoir faire de nos sommeliers.
Sincères salutations,
Monsieur Marc Massot et son équipe
Directeur
Vins Emotions

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Depuis plusieurs années, mon ami Jean-Pierre Dubarry fait une revue de presse hebdomadaire consacrée au vin et dans une moindre mesure à la gastronomie. Voici l'opus 251.

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